{"id":26067,"date":"2021-08-30T22:44:09","date_gmt":"2021-08-30T20:44:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/?p=26067"},"modified":"2021-08-30T22:46:12","modified_gmt":"2021-08-30T20:46:12","slug":"julie-masse-vanilla-creates-an-incomparable-sillage-a-signature-and-volume","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/perfume\/julie-masse-vanilla-creates-an-incomparable-sillage-a-signature-and-volume\/","title":{"rendered":"Julie Mass\u00e9: \u201cVanilla creates an incomparable sillage, a signature and volume\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_610be8d8532d8\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\">Julie Mass\u00e9 has been a perfumer at Mane since 2010, where her creations include <em>Le Temps des r\u00eaves<\/em> with Mathieu Nardin for Goutal, <em>S\u00ec<\/em> with Christine Nagel for Giorgio Armani, <em>Th\u00e9 Yulong<\/em> and <em>Pivoine Suzhou<\/em> with C\u00e9cile Matton for Armani Priv\u00e9, and, for Calvin Klein, <em>Eternity for Men Cologne<\/em> with V\u00e9ronique Nyberg and Ralf Schwieger.<\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_610be8d8532d8 {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p><meta charset=\"utf-8\"><em>&#8212;<\/em><br><em>Interview from the chapter dedicated to the vanilla, in the book <meta charset=\"utf-8\"><\/em>From Plant to Essence &#8211; A World Tour of Fragrant Raw Material<em> (see below)<\/em><br>&#8212;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>What do you think of when<\/strong> <strong>you think of vanilla?<br><\/strong>Vanilla is paradoxical as a raw material because everyone thinks they know the smell, but many people are actually thinking of soft, powdery vanillin, which is just one of its compounds. If you give people the absolute to smell, they probably won\u2019t know what it is. Vanilla holds surprises even for perfumers. It is always said that the green pods have no smell of their own, but when I went into a warehouse in Madagascar where they were waiting to be processed, I<br>was struck by an extraordinary white floral scent with sunny, spicy tones.<br><br><strong>What olfactive nuances can you detect between the different vanilla extractions?<\/strong><br>The absolute obtained from the pods by volatile solvent extraction is richer and more complex. It is woody, with<br>slight leather and tobacco notes and spicy, eugenol-type facets. Jungle Essence, produced by supercritical fluid extraction, is softer and closer to the pod. The same process also gives us Pure Jungle Essence vanilla oil, which is far more animalic, with cresol facets. Then there is the infusion, obtained by soaking pods in a mixture of water and<br>alcohol. It is milder and more affordable, so it can be used in greater quantities.<br><strong><br>What does vanilla bring to a composition?<\/strong><br>Its generosity and sensuality bring roundness and comfort and can soften harsher notes. I particularly love its magic in woody, leather, spicy or mineral accords. It is a luxury raw material but even just a touch will create an incomparable sillage, a signature and volume. In <em>S\u00ec <\/em>by Giorgio Armani, Jungle Essence vanilla gives the perfume character and body.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li><strong>More about Mane<\/strong>: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.mane.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">www.mane.com<\/a><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8212;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-25820\" width=\"398\" height=\"398\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3-30x30.jpg 30w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3-60x60.jpg 60w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3-600x600.jpg 600w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/07\/Light_de-la-plante-a-lessence_couv-ombree-3-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 398px) 100vw, 398px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><strong>This interview is from<\/strong>:<\/strong><br><em>De la plante \u00e0 l\u2019essence \u2013 Un tour du monde des mati\u00e8res \u00e0 parfums<\/em><br><em>From Plant to Essence &#8211; A World Tour of Fragrant Raw Material<\/em><br>(Fran\u00e7ais-English), Nez \u00e9ditions, Collectif, 2021,  45$\/30\u20ac<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Available for France and international:\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/shop.bynez.com\/boutique\/nez-editions-english\/nez-culture-nez-editions-english\/de-la-plante-a-lessence-un-tour-du-monde-des-matieres-a-parfums-collectif\/\">Shop Auparfum<\/a><\/li><li>Available for North America:\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/www.nez-editions.us\/products\/de-la-plante-a-lessence-a-world-tour-of-fragrant-raw-materials\">www.nez-editions.us<\/a><\/li><\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Julie Mass\u00e9 is a perfumer at Mane since 2010. We asked her about vanilla.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":25,"featured_media":26337,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[675,1416],"tags":[1035,938,931,3119,3333,3409],"coauthors":[1125],"class_list":["post-26067","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews","category-perfume","tag-julie-masse-en","tag-mane-en","tag-natural-raw-materials","tag-perfumers","tag-simppar-the-international-exhibition-of-raw-materials-for-perfumery","tag-vanilla","pmpro-has-access"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Julie Mass\u00e9: \u201cVanilla creates an incomparable sillage, a signature and volume\u201d - Nez the olfactory cultural movement<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Julie Mass\u00e9 is a perfumer at Mane since 2010. 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