{"id":31205,"date":"2022-05-23T11:23:53","date_gmt":"2022-05-23T09:23:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/?p=31205"},"modified":"2022-06-01T16:27:37","modified_gmt":"2022-06-01T14:27:37","slug":"niche-perfumery-moves-centre-stage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/niche-perfumery-moves-centre-stage\/","title":{"rendered":"Niche perfumery moves centre stage"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_6287bf7fbe385\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\">As Esxence, the niche perfumery fair, prepares to open its doors in Milan from 15 to 18 June 2022, Nez caught up with a number of figures from the world of niche fragrances, in a series of interviews with perfumers, stores and brands. But, putting common misapprehensions aside, what lies behind the term that is as much overused as it is decried?<\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_6287bf7fbe385 {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p>Founded in 2009 by Maurizio Cavezzali and Silvio Levi, Esxence describes itself as the \u201cinternational artistic perfumery event\u201d and is celebrating its twelfth anniversary this year. A key meeting point for various niche perfumery actors, the event will be hosting a diverse line-up of 270 brands. How has this very distinctive category emerged on the market to become a core feature of the fragrance industry?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The origins of the term \u201cniche\u201d are a little unclear. While it lacks any negative connotations in English, in French it is often viewed by the sector as far from positive, an insult even, due to another meaning as a dog\u2019s kennel. The word\u2019s meaning was initially architectural rather than canine though, referring to a recess hollowed out of the wall, and it wasn\u2019t until the 17th century that it began to be used to refer to where a pet sleeps. And its Italian roots derive from the word <em>nichio<\/em>, a seashell. Plenty there for the imagination to play with! However, in business terms it refers to a \u201cmarket segment where little competition exists, allowing companies to develop new commercial opportunities,\u201d according to the Larousse dictionary; in the Cambridge one, it is described as \u201can opportunity for a business to offer a product or service that is not offered by other businesses\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Also known as high, exceptional, alternative or independent perfumery, the niche category emerged in the 1960s in response to the sector\u2019s growing industrialisation. According to historian Elisabeth de Feydeau\u2019s <em>Dictionnaire amoureux du parfum<\/em>, it essentially aspires to \u201cwake the emotions, flatter the personality and meet a strong need for singularity,\u201d and is spearheaded by a handful of figures who demand greater creative freedom, a vision less influenced by market diktats, and limited distribution. In her book <em>La Grande Histoire du parfum<\/em>, she also suggests that the term niche can refer to \u201cthe habitat of birds who nest in secret, protected places,\u201d similar to the cosy little boutiques that these new fragrance houses favour.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ma\u00eft\u00e9 Turonnet, a specialist journalist who witnessed the sector\u2019s emergence, cites three key pioneers: \u201cWith Serge Lutens, Annick Goutal and Jean-Fran\u00e7ois Laporte, perfumery was shining the spotlight on people for the first time, using very powerful storytelling. However, at that point it was about creative directors rather than perfumers,\u201d she stresses. It wasn\u2019t until Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Malle\u2019s 2000 initiative that perfumers took centre stage. But in those days, the niche branch of the industry stood out in olfactory terms for its innovative style: \u201cit wasn\u2019t about rich florals anymore, with their multiple components; ingredients were worked on in radically different ways. And the authors, their distinctive styles, began to be recognised,\u201d explains Ma\u00eft\u00e9 Turonnet. As the niche sector took shape, it excited a lot of interest and a number of specialist journalists with olfactory training began to write about the subject: \u201cPerfume writing and niche perfumery arrived almost simultaneously, which played a huge part in the new category\u2019s growth. The cultural influence was significant, serving to cultivate people\u2019s tastes and change how the industry was seen overall. In short, thanks to niche perfumery and the media that promoted it, the public as a whole became aware of olfactory creation,\u201d she concludes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The large traditional fragrance houses soon took an interest and started to develop their own exclusive ranges, travel and private collections. Some brands were acquired by powerful multinationals, in the manner of Puig\u2019s very recent takeover of Byredo for an amount supposedly close to one billion euros [update June 1st].\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>A number of trade fairs, particularly Esxence and Pitti Fragranze (Florence), point to niche perfumery\u2019s strong presence in Italy, where it is recognised by some special prizes. So although Larousse claims that \u201cthe niche sector is often abandoned by large businesses for reasons of profitability, since it is a micro market with a limited potential customer base,\u201d our industry refuses to embrace this passive approach. As Marc Dubrule, in charge of strategic development of L&#8217;Or\u00e9al\u2019s Selective Divisions, said during a 2016 press conference, the sector has even \u201csaved the market in the last few years, by bringing enchantment back into perfumery stores, and by educating consumers.\u201d&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>While it is difficult to find reliable figures on the annual number of launches &#8211; there is talk here and there of several hundred creations (perhaps close to a thousand) &#8211; this is a market segment that is constantly progressing, as evidenced by the growing number of brands present at the Milan show.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>As an independent perfumer, launching a niche brand is not usually about opportunistic marketing \u2013 quite the opposite. It is a risky gamble and plenty of brands fail every year. And those who delude themselves about the success of emblematic brands bought by large groups often find themselves brutally confronted with the mysteries of a fragile economic model.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>At the heart of this model is the distribution of perfumes<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_31205_1('footnote_plugin_reference_31205_1_1');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_31205_1('footnote_plugin_reference_31205_1_1');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_31205_1_1\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[1]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_31205_1_1\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">The distributor is the economic agent whose role is to market the perfumes to retailers and to ensure the logistics &#8211; storage and transport<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_31205_1_1').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_31205_1_1', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script>, which brands are sometimes confronted with for the first time at trade fairs such as Esxence, when they had previously concentrated on the creative part. But once the perfume is in the bottle, the hardest part remains: reaching the shelves of perfume stores and finding customers, which is where the role of points of sale is crucial in spreading a perfume that is still largely unknown to the general public.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>We wanted to hear from these different voices and paint a broad-brush portrait of a sector that is a force to be reckoned with.<\/p>\n<div class=\"speaker-mute footnotes_reference_container\"> <div class=\"footnote_container_prepare\"><p><span role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"footnote_reference_container_label pointer\" onclick=\"footnote_expand_collapse_reference_container_31205_1();\">Notes<\/span><span role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"footnote_reference_container_collapse_button\" style=\"display: none;\" onclick=\"footnote_expand_collapse_reference_container_31205_1();\">[<a id=\"footnote_reference_container_collapse_button_31205_1\">+<\/a>]<\/span><\/p><\/div> <div id=\"footnote_references_container_31205_1\" style=\"\"><table class=\"footnotes_table footnote-reference-container\"><caption class=\"accessibility\">Notes<\/caption> <tbody> \r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_31205_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_31205_1_1');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_31205_1_1\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>1<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">The distributor is the economic agent whose role is to market the perfumes to retailers and to ensure the logistics &#8211; storage and transport<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n <\/tbody> <\/table> <\/div><\/div><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> function footnote_expand_reference_container_31205_1() { jQuery('#footnote_references_container_31205_1').show(); jQuery('#footnote_reference_container_collapse_button_31205_1').text('\u2212'); } function footnote_collapse_reference_container_31205_1() { jQuery('#footnote_references_container_31205_1').hide(); jQuery('#footnote_reference_container_collapse_button_31205_1').text('+'); } function footnote_expand_collapse_reference_container_31205_1() { if (jQuery('#footnote_references_container_31205_1').is(':hidden')) { footnote_expand_reference_container_31205_1(); } else { footnote_collapse_reference_container_31205_1(); } } function footnote_moveToReference_31205_1(p_str_TargetID) { footnote_expand_reference_container_31205_1(); var l_obj_Target = jQuery('#' + p_str_TargetID); if (l_obj_Target.length) { jQuery( 'html, body' ).delay( 0 ); jQuery('html, body').animate({ scrollTop: l_obj_Target.offset().top - window.innerHeight * 0.2 }, 380); } } function footnote_moveToAnchor_31205_1(p_str_TargetID) { footnote_expand_reference_container_31205_1(); var l_obj_Target = jQuery('#' + p_str_TargetID); if (l_obj_Target.length) { jQuery( 'html, body' ).delay( 0 ); jQuery('html, body').animate({ scrollTop: l_obj_Target.offset().top - window.innerHeight * 0.2 }, 380); } }<\/script>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>As Esxence, the niche perfumery fair, prepares to open its doors in Milan from 15 to 18 June 2022, Nez caught up with a number of figures from the world of niche fragrances, in a series of interviews with perfumers, stores and brands. But, putting common misapprehensions aside, what lies behind the term that is as much overused as it is decried?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":12139,"featured_media":31124,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[5259,1416,3123],"tags":[150,5311,5313,726,731,1257],"coauthors":[2930],"class_list":["post-31205","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-niches-confidences","category-perfume","category-reports","tag-esxence","tag-maite-turonnet-en","tag-maurizio-cavezzali-en","tag-niche-perfume","tag-pitti-fragranze-en","tag-silvio-levi","pmpro-has-access"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Niche perfumery moves centre stage - Nez the olfactory cultural movement<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"As Esxence, the niche perfumery fair, prepares to open its doors in Milan from 15 to 18 June 2022, Nez caught up with a number of figures from the world of niche fragrances, in a series of interviews with perfumers, stores and brands. 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