{"id":32450,"date":"2022-06-01T17:23:55","date_gmt":"2022-06-01T15:23:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/?p=32450"},"modified":"2022-12-05T17:47:47","modified_gmt":"2022-12-05T16:47:47","slug":"cecile-zarokian-its-possible-to-compete-successfully-with-the-big-fragrance-houses","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/cecile-zarokian-its-possible-to-compete-successfully-with-the-big-fragrance-houses\/","title":{"rendered":"C\u00e9cile Zarokian: \u201cIt\u2019s possible to compete successfully with the big fragrance houses\u201d"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_7260f2d50e71a5135b5d2b4fa9a948bd\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\">C\u00e9cile Zarokian is an independent Paris-based perfumer who founded her own company, C\u00e9cile Zarokian Parfumeur. She works with a wide range of brands and knows how to adapt to different clients and target markets, from South America to the Middle East and Europe. Interview.\r\n<\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_7260f2d50e71a5135b5d2b4fa9a948bd {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p><strong>How did your work as an independent perfumer develop?&nbsp;<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I\u2019ve been working for seventeen years, including the years I spent at Robertet, and I\u2019ve been independent for eleven of them. I spent a long time on my own juggling between creation, paperwork and logistics. I had to expand my business if I wanted to stay efficient when the workload piled up: now there are three of us onboard. My right-hand woman is Pauline Zimer, who trained at ISIPCA after four years working on product development at Herm\u00e8s Parfums. She deals with the assessment side as well as managing raw materials and communication, among other things. Laetitia Loviconi helps us with the administrative and sales tasks. The company is taking shape and we\u2019re planning to move to larger premises. Clients include niche brands of different sizes, such as Amouage, Nishane, Masque Milano, Jacques Fath, Jovoy, Jul and Mad\u2026 The goal is to consolidate and build on our growth, working with niche as well as mainstream perfume brands. Our latest major successes include the <em>Bossa<\/em> adventure for Brazilian brand Granado, which is part of Puig.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>You competed for the project with Firmenich and Givaudan. And you won.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It could well point to a shift in the industry model. These days it\u2019s possible to compete successfully with the big perfume houses. It was the first time an independent perfumer \u2013 and a French independent perfumer besides \u2013 won that kind of project in Brazil, the second biggest perfume market worldwide. The challenge I had was appealing to consumers from the target country while ensuring I stood out. <em>Bossa<\/em> is now close on the heels of the brand\u2019s best seller and the Brazilian press describes it as \u201cthe solar floral the market was missing.\u201d That\u2019s sending a strong signal to the industry!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Between the desire to win a project and the need to impose your creative approach, what\u2019s your attitude and where do you draw the line?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I don\u2019t work with a perfume library [a collection of existing accords]: a personalised creation always starts with a blank page. You then need to know how to explain your approach. And be capable of going in a new creative direction if necessary. It doesn\u2019t happen often, but it can. I prefer only submitting one proposal that I believe in 100% than two I only half believe in.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>What are the keys to successfully responding to a brief?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There are two of them in my view. First of all, you have to be flexible and help the client describe what they want, by learning to read between the lines. The other key is understanding that you can\u2019t please everyone: the creative director, the sales department, and all the rest. The fewer intermediaries there are the better. Because I see the relationship as a partnership, not a power struggle. On the other hand, tensions may arise when deadlines are too tight. So you have to know how to set boundaries. Taking on work that was wanted yesterday is no good for anyone. When I need more time and a higher cost price, I don\u2019t hold back from telling the client.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>In what way are you involved in the project or launches for the brands you work with?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>This is another area where flexibility and responsiveness are crucial. In November 2020, France went into lockdown again. Zoom meetings had become the norm months before that. There was very little travel. I found out that in Brazil, Granado was going to put <em>Bossa <\/em>in its window displays for Christmas. Without thinking twice, Pauline and I hopped on the first flight to Rio so we could be part of what was a major launch. That meant the brand got to shoot a video at Sugarloaf Mountain, the city\u2019s symbol which appears on the <em>Bossa <\/em>bottle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Just before our last trip to Brazil, in March of this year, I realised that one of my clients, Nishane, was distributed in Neeche, Sao Paulo\u2019s only niche shop. I told them both I was arriving. So an impromptu event was organised to promote an independent Turkish brand!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>You create for markets with huge variations in how perfume is used and what needs it meets. How do you deal with these cultural disparities?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For Brazil, I had to compose a summery, cooling perfume with a fairly low concentration, around 10%. The Middle East is the opposite: strength and concentration are essential criteria. For <em>Epic 56<\/em> <em>Woman<\/em> by Amouage, I ramped it up to 56%. As for attars, the traditional alcohol-free, oil-based fragrances, they reach 100% concentration. That makes it very tricky to respect IFRA norms. But the challenge is stimulating and the result very intense in olfactory terms. For instance, I recently created four attars for Amouage, released last January: <em>Rose Aqor, Oud Ulya, Saffron Hamra<\/em> and <em>Leather Sadah<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>You seem to have a special bond with that particular perfume house\u2026<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It\u2019s true that I created my very first perfume, <em>Epic Woman<\/em>, for Amouage when I was learning the trade at Robertet. It\u2019s still their second best-selling women\u2019s fragrance. I\u2019m also proud of the fact that <em>Silver Oud<\/em>, recognised for its strength, has become a benchmark for oud-based perfumes \u2013 and that it went from a limited edition to featuring in the collection because demand was so high! And <em>Rose Aqor<\/em> earned me the praise of Dominique Ropion, someone I greatly admire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>As well as fine fragrances, you create for other olfactory, or even edible, concepts\u2026<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For the party launching the range of Amouage attars in Cannes, I created three fragrances \u2013 <em>Rose Aqor, Oud Ulya<\/em> and <em>Saffron Hamra <\/em>\u2013 as edible scents to be sprayed on carefully chosen cocktails. Mixology is a world that fascinates me; it seems to me that mixologists essentially do the same work as perfumers. They can spend hours wondering if lemon should be used in the form of zest, perfume or essence in a given creation. But I also develop olfactory identities for hotels, malls, spirits brands\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>In 2011, you worked with an illustrator on a project where the visuals and fragrances mirrored each other. If you had to leave your comfort zone again, what direction would you take?<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>I\u2019d love to work with several artists from different worlds, particularly a choreographer. But what I\u2019m really excited about at the moment is the aim of developing a perfume with a creative director from a couture or jewellery house. That\u2019s something I wouldn\u2019t have dared to dream of a few years ago!<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8212;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Find out more on C\u00e9cile Zarokian\u2019s website: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.cecilezarokian.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">cecilezarokian.com<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Photo : \u00a9 Firas Shambeh<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">REPORT \u00ab NICHE AND CONFIDENCES \u00bb<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/niche-perfumery-moves-centre-stage\/\">Niche perfumery moves centre stage<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a data-type=\"post\" data-id=\"31260\" href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/sylviane-lust-beauty-by-kroonen-nous-choisissons-des-parfums-complexes-qui-evoluent-sur-la-peau-et-ou-la-liberte-offerte-au-parfumeur-est-perceptible\/\">Sylviane Lust (Beauty by Kroonen) : \u201cWe choose complex fragrances that evolve on the skin, and that tell you the perfumer has been given a free hand.\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/karine-torrent-floratropia-in-my-view-100-natural-perfumery-is-the-new-niche-in-perfumery\/\">Karine Torrent (Floratropia) : \u201cIn my view, 100% natural perfumery is the new niche\u201d,<\/a> by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/perfume\/barbara-herman-eris-parfums-whether-consciously-or-not-with-each-new-creation-i-tend-to-explore-a-very-different-path-from-the-previous-one\/\">Barbara Herman (Eris Parfums): \u201cWhether consciously or not, with each new creation I tend to explore a very different path from the previous one\u201d<\/a>, by Sarah Bouasse<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/entretiens\/serge-laugier-le-paravent-its-important-to-me-to-offer-the-more-niche-fragrances-because-they-always-have-an-unique-olfactory-signature\/\">Serge Laugier (Le Paravent): \u201cIt\u2019s important to me to offer the more niche fragrances, because they always have an unique olfactory signature\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/cecile-zarokian-its-possible-to-compete-successfully-with-the-big-fragrance-houses\/\">C\u00e9cile Zarokian: \u201cIt\u2019s possible to compete successfully with the big fragrance houses\u201d<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/entretiens\/pissara-umavijani-dusita-the-hardest-thing-for-a-perfumer-is-expressing-your-signature-style-in-different-registers\/\">Pissara Umavijani (Dusita): \u201cThe hardest thing for a perfumer is expressing your signature style in different registers\u201d,<\/a> by Sarah Bouasse<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/entretiens\/clara-feder-and-michel-gutsatz-le-jardin-retrouve-were-trying-to-build-a-balanced-collection-while-sticking-to-our-motto-avant-garde-as-a-legacy\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Clara Feder and Michel Gutsatz (Le Jardin retrouv\u00e9): \u201cWe\u2019re trying to build a balanced collection while sticking to our motto: avant-garde as a legacy.\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/liam-sardea-lknu-we-try-to-guide-each-person-to-create-their-own-constellation-in-this-vast-cosmos\/\">Liam Sardea (LKNU): \u201cWe try to guide each person to create their own constellation in this vast cosmos\u201d<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/dhaher-bin-dhaher-tola-im-spending-more-and-more-of-my-time-breaking-down-barriers-between-olfactory-cultures\/\">Dhaher bin Dhaher (Tola): \u201cI\u2019m spending more and more of my time breaking down barriers between olfactory cultures\u201d<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/nathalie-feisthauer-lab-scent-for-me-niche-is-a-definition-of-beauty\/\">Nathalie Feisthauer (LAB Scent): \u201cFor me, niche is a definition of beauty\u201d,<\/a> by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/franco-wright-luckyscent-ultimately-customers-see-how-the-niche-category-pushes-fragrance-in-more-interesting-directions\/\">Franco Wright (Luckyscent): \u201cUltimately customers see how the niche category pushes fragrance in more interesting directions\u201d<\/a>, by Anne-Sophie Hojlo<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/luca-maffei-atelier-fragranze-milano-niche-perfumery-allows-me-to-take-risks\/\">Luca Maffei (Atelier Fragranze Milano): \u201cNiche perfumery allows me to take risks\u201d<\/a>, by Jessica Mignot<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/murat-katran-and-mert-guzel-nishane-istanbul-is-literally-a-bridge-between-cultures\/\">Murat Katran and Mert Guzel (Nishane): &#8220;Istanbul is literally a bridge between cultures&#8221;<\/a>, by Guillaume Tesson<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/reports\/niches-confidences\/agnieszka-lukasik-galilu-now-the-brands-come-to-us\/\">Agnieszka Lukasik (Galilu): \u201cNow, the brands come to us\u201d<\/a>, by Anne-Sophie Hojlo<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>C\u00e9cile Zarokian is an independent Paris-based perfumer who founded her own company and works with a wide range of brands, from South America to the Middle East and Europe. Interview.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":21023,"featured_media":31177,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[675,5259,1416,3123],"tags":[5489,5490,5491,726,5336,1155],"coauthors":[3796],"class_list":["post-32450","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews","category-niches-confidences","category-perfume","category-reports","tag-amouage-en","tag-cecile-zarokian","tag-granado-en","tag-niche-perfume","tag-pauline-zimer-en","tag-perfumer","pmpro-has-access"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>C\u00e9cile Zarokian: \u201cIt\u2019s possible to compete successfully with the big fragrance houses\u201d - Nez the olfactory cultural movement<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"C\u00e9cile Zarokian is an independent Paris-based perfumer who founded her own company and works with a wide range of brands, from South America to the Middle East and Europe. 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