{"id":35664,"date":"2022-10-12T14:04:37","date_gmt":"2022-10-12T12:04:37","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/?p=35664"},"modified":"2022-10-12T14:05:41","modified_gmt":"2022-10-12T12:05:41","slug":"vetiver-shadow-and-light","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/reports\/perfume-trends-the-notes-making-a-splash-today\/vetiver-shadow-and-light\/","title":{"rendered":"Vetiver, shadow and light"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_b044ce4d2531876f5ff3ca8154329d34\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\">Although this tropical plant has long been a classic in perfumery, it recently seems to be attracting renewed interest, with a host of new releases giving it a leading role. An overview of its botanical roots and olfactory developments, as seen through the eyes of perfumers Marc-Antoine Corticchiato (Parfum d&#8217;empire) and Quentin Bisch (Givaudan).<\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_b044ce4d2531876f5ff3ca8154329d34 {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p><strong>Historical roots<\/strong><br>The term vetiver refers to several species of the genus <em>Chrysopogon<\/em> belonging to the Poaceae family (grasses). It is a perennial herbaceous plant growing up to two metres tall, with long, narrow, slightly rigid leaves and fine, dense roots that grow downwards to a depth of up to three metres. It thrives in sandy, chalky soil. Although vetiver grows naturally in tropical and subtropical latitudes, it is native to southern India: its name comes from the Tamil <em>vettiveru<\/em> and its use as a medicinal plant is cited in Ayurvedic texts dating back to 1000 BCE. It has only recently come to the attention of the West, as suggested by the late appearance of the term \u201cvetyver\u201d in the French language, in the 19th century, which then became \u201cvetiver\u201d in English. \u201cIt is a plant that has a magical nature, because of its history, its properties and also its hardiness: it resists cyclones, prevents soil erosion and is an essential source of income for countries such as Haiti,\u201d explains Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, independent perfumer and founder of Parfum d&#8217;empire, who recently dedicated a creation to it (see below).&nbsp;<br>These qualities mean vetiver is not confined to perfumery: its straw is used to make thatched roofs, for fodder, and in weaving to create textiles and various objects. As for the roots, whose resin is extracted for the essential oil, they are also used in Indian and African cuisine for their aroma. Their digestive and repellent properties make them a prime component in Ayurvedic medicine still used today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Geographic variations<\/strong><br>Although several varieties are cultivated, the one that produces essential oil for perfumery is <em>Chrysopogon zizanioides<\/em>, which was first subjected to chemical analysis as far back as 1809. However, each species has its own specific characteristics linked to its geographic origin.<br>The main vetiver-producing country today is Haiti, where it was introduced in the inter-war period. A small amount is also produced in Java, Indonesia, offering a smokier essence. On Reunion Island, production of Bourbon vetiver has almost disappeared due to a lack of workforce and available land. However, it is \u201cthe benchmark in perfumery: it has a depth, a richness, a sophistication that cannot be found to the same extent in Haitian vetiver. I was sometimes present when it was harvested, with Lucien Acquarone, a distiller friend. The root system is deeply entrenched in the soil and difficult to extract. It gives off a very earthy scent, similar to the smell of beetroot, which is more overpowering than petrol,\u201d recalls Marc-Antoine Corticchiato.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Woody nuances<\/strong><br>Once washed, cut and dried in the sun, the roots can be distilled. The components of the resulting essential oil with the most powerful olfactory impact are isovalencenol, khusimol, alpha vetivone and beta vetivone. Quentin Bisch, the Givaudan perfumer behind <em>V\u00e9tiver \u00e9carlate<\/em> for L&#8217;Artisan parfumeur (see below), describes the essential oil as \u201cthe most luminous woody note in perfumery, with its grapefruit facets Jean-Claude Ellena highlighted alongside Iso E Super [in <em>Terre d&#8217;Herm\u00e8s<\/em>, see below]. While citrus fruits provide top notes, vetiver has a wonderful characteristic: the more the perfume evaporates, the more the colourful, zesty facets of grapefruit are revealed. It&#8217;s a very complex essence, which also has earthy, rooty and woody notes that are more or less smoky.\u201d<br>Perfumers can then decide to enhance certain facets: \u201cchemistry gives us an invaluable helping hand with vetiveryl acetate, a woody molecule stripped of its earthy notes and only keeping its luminous grapefruit essence and a creamy dimension, like a less dry and more luminous cedar. Conversely, to bring out the smoky facets, you can use cypriol, guaiacwood, or even smoky leathery ingredients such as birch and styrax,\u201d he goes on to say.&nbsp;<br>Vetiver is a staple in perfumery, playing a key role in men&#8217;s fragrances in particular. In mainstream perfumes, however, \u201cmost of the time, the essence is padded out to tone down its earthy and root-like facets. I\u2019ve always found the great classics a little too polished and smooth, with a recurring citrus top note. More recently, we\u2019ve started to play with a fruity rhubarb or grapefruit accord,\u201d explains Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. &nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><br>In fragrant territory<\/strong><br>Attempting to draw up an exhaustive list of olfactory interpretations of the ingredient would be misguided \u2013 and is not exactly what this article sets out to do.&nbsp;<br>But it would be impossible to understand the current releases without a quick overview of the note&#8217;s history. A pioneer in the field, Carven&#8217;s <em>V\u00e9tiver<\/em> is one of the first to bear the name, even if it was preceded by Oriza L. Legrand&#8217;s <em>V\u00e9tiver Royal Bourbon <\/em>dating from 1914. \u00c9douard Hache, who composed it in 1957, mixed it with a foug\u00e8re accord accompanied by lavender and tonka bean, resulting in an archetypal classic masculine scent. It went on to be reissued twice, and we happily remember the more successful 2014 version created by Nad\u00e8ge Le Garlantezec.&nbsp;<br>A fervent admirer of the ground-breaking \u00c9douard Hache, Jean-Paul Guerlain took up the note in 1959, opting to play on its duality: between light and dark, between a lemony opening and a smoky, woody base. His creation in turn became a great classic, initiating a long line of vetivers with a citrusy opening. <em>Terre <\/em>d&#8217;Herm\u00e8s is one of them, while also representing \u201ca shift in the note&#8217;s use, even if it isn\u2019t &#8216;just&#8217; a vetiver,\u201d says Marc-Antoine Corticchiato. What Jean-Claude Ellena did was to break away from the classic composition by employing Iso E Super to bring out the grapefruit aspect, more fruity but still zesty, on a dry, spicy, smoky woody structure. Launched in 2006, it remains one of the brand&#8217;s best sellers, with help from its various versions. Three years earlier, the same perfumer had teamed it up with more gourmand, cereal and almond notes, in <em>V\u00e9tiver tonka<\/em> for the Hermessences collection.<br>The year 2006 also saw the release of another great vetiver with <em>Encre noire<\/em> by Nathalie Lorson for Lalique, built on the Bourbon and Haiti essences, which explores its darker and denser facets.&nbsp;<br>In contrast, Dominique Ropion&#8217;s 2002 <em>V\u00e9tiver Extraordinaire<\/em> revealed the ingredient\u2019s luminosity, also becoming a landmark creation. Composed following the discovery of an LMR molecular distillation of Haiti vetiver, which the perfumer doses at 25%, this is a vetiver purified of its camphor and terpene notes.<br>Another noteworthy fragrance is Isabelle Doyen&#8217;s triple interpretation of vetiver for the (very select!) brand LesNez: <em>Turtle vetiver<\/em> is endowed with a strong character and medicinal nuances.<br>While the plant has on the whole been synonymous with masculinity on the perfume market, it has nevertheless been interpreted in a more feminine way (even if we know that perfumes, like angels, have no sex). For instance, by Alberto Morillas with <em>Le Baiser du dragon<\/em> for Cartier, released in 2003, in a creation evoking a balsam-heavy Orient, warm and hushed. The same warmth also features in the eau de toilette <em>Sycomore<\/em>, which joined the Chanel Exclusifs collection in 2008, where Jacques Polge opted to work on contrasting resins and wood sculpted by incense. It was reissued as an eau de parfum in 2016, then as an extract in 2022, composed this time by Olivier Polge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>The scent of renewal?<\/strong><br>With many recent launches featuring the ingredient, it is clear that it is attracting renewed interest. The publication of our book <a href=\"https:\/\/shop.bynez.com\/boutique\/nez-editions-english\/nezlmr-the-naturals-notebook\/vetiver-in-perfumery-collective\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><em>Vetiver in perfumery <\/em>in the Nez \u00e9ditions + LMR Naturals Notebook collection<\/a> in 2020 coincided with this revival of vetiver as a core perfume component. How are perfumers taking a fresh approach to interpreting it?<br>Some of them choose to marry it to another, sometimes antagonistic note, producing, for example, the <em>Radish Vetiver<\/em> fight at Comme des gar\u00e7ons in 2019: in the ring, a radish with musty tones knocks out the root.<br>For the Lesquendieu house in 2021, the note is struck with boxing gloves in a <em>Cuir Vetyver<\/em> \u201crepresenting strength and power.\u201d&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>But vetiver is not always a fighter: it can also be charming, waltzing with iris to sing \u201cthe charm of our loves\u201d in <em>V\u00e9tiver et iris<\/em> by C\u00e9line Ellena for the brand 100Bon. A creation that remembers a lost lover with \u201cthe root ingredients, which symbolically refer to the palate of memory and bring their tactile aspect to the perfume, counterbalanced by a surge of spices.\u201d&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"400\" height=\"500\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/100Bon-Vetiver-iris.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35544\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/100Bon-Vetiver-iris.png 400w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/100Bon-Vetiver-iris-240x300.png 240w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption>100Bon, <em>V\u00e9tiver &amp; iris, <\/em>2021<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Independent perfumer Hiram Green came up with a \u201cfragrance of celebrities in the golden age of Hollywood: elegant and charming, but also dynamic and daring.\u201d Composed of 100% natural ingredients, <em>Vetiver<\/em> opens with citrus notes and blends essences of Haiti and Java with cedar and ambrette.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"400\" height=\"470\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/VetiverHiramGreen.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35546\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/VetiverHiramGreen.jpg 400w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/VetiverHiramGreen-255x300.jpg 255w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption>Hiram Green,&nbsp;<em>Vetiver<\/em>, 2021<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Molinard offers us another travelling fragrance with <em>V\u00e9tiver<\/em>, now featuring in its collection dedicated to raw materials as it \u201ctakes us on a journey through the landscapes of arid and exotic lands.\u201d The Java and Haiti essences are intertwined, interspersed with amber, lavender and violet.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" width=\"400\" height=\"399\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Vetiver-Molinard.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35548\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Vetiver-Molinard.png 400w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Vetiver-Molinard-300x300.png 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Vetiver-Molinard-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption>Molinard,&nbsp;<em>V\u00e9tiver<\/em>, 2021<br><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>In 2022, the material is back on the road again with L\u2019Orchestre Parfum, which proposes associations between fragrance and music. Fused with the smell of the Mississippi blues in a \u201cmagical contrast between light and darkness, joy and melancholy,\u201d <em>V\u00e9tiver Overdrive<\/em> is the work of Am\u00e9lie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel from the Flair studio.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Vetiver-overdrive-Orchestre-parfums.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35550\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Vetiver-overdrive-Orchestre-parfums.jpg 400w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Vetiver-overdrive-Orchestre-parfums-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Vetiver-overdrive-Orchestre-parfums-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption>L\u2019Orchestre parfums,<em>&nbsp;V\u00e9tiver Overdrive<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p><em>Vetivera<\/em> takes us out to sea at Le Couvent: Jean-Claude Ellena serves us a \u201ccocktail of Haitian vetiver and Madagascar black pepper\u201d in a composition that sails on \u201ca perfect balance of genres,\u201d freeing it from the masculine category where it is often confined.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Couvent-Vetivera.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35552\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Couvent-Vetivera.jpg 400w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Couvent-Vetivera-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Couvent-Vetivera-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption>Le Couvent,&nbsp;<em>Vetivera<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>The brand Scents of wood, which uses barrel-aged spirits to dilute its concentrates, has devised a flowering vetiver. In <em>Vetiver in Bloom<\/em>, perfumer Natasha C\u00f4t\u00e9-Mouzannar offers us \u201ca magical landscape where the tenderness of freshly bloomed flowers meets the earthy depth\u201d of a Haitian LMR vetiver.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Vetiver_in_Bloom-ok.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35554\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Vetiver_in_Bloom-ok.jpg 400w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Vetiver_in_Bloom-ok-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Vetiver_in_Bloom-ok-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption>Scents of Wood,&nbsp;<em>Vetiver in Bloom<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>We can also find a floral interpretation at Guerlain: in the recent <em>Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Vetiver<\/em>, Delphine Jelk \u201chighlights the whiteness of neroli\u201d in a Mediterranean landscape celebrating \u201cthe love of Italy\u201d, with an added nod to the sunny south in the form of fig and basil.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"400\" height=\"408\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Aqua-allegoria-Nerola-vetiver.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35556\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Aqua-allegoria-Nerola-vetiver.png 400w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Aqua-allegoria-Nerola-vetiver-294x300.png 294w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption>Guerlain,&nbsp;<em>Aqua Allegoria Nerola Vetiver<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Emerging from the waves, the iodine vetiver created by Quentin Bisch in <em>Kenzo Homme Intense<\/em> in 2021 conveys the image of \u201cskin just out of the sea and heated by the sun.\u201d He then chose to work on it in a completely different register, by offering L&#8217;Artisan Parfumeur a composition: \u201cI had created a vetiver-tomato leaf that I presented to them: the seed of what was to grow into <em>V\u00e9tiver \u00e9carlate<\/em> gave the impetus for the rest of the collection. On their advice, I designed four fragrances centring on the vegetable garden. The difficulty, but also the challenge of the whole range, was to have a strong message while being as readable as possible and remaining wearable and pleasant, which is not easy when you work with vegetable notes that tend to be associated with food references. With <em>V\u00e9tiver \u00e9carlate<\/em>, I followed on from what Jean-Claude Ellena had created around grapefruit, with a focus on green sulphurous notes and lots of work on root facets. Akigalawood, a patchouli derivative which also evokes vetiver, is what gives the fragrance its structure, its staying power and its woody edginess,\u201d explains the perfumer.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/VetivierEcarlate-lAP.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35558\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/VetivierEcarlate-lAP.jpg 400w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/VetivierEcarlate-lAP-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/VetivierEcarlate-lAP-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption>L\u2019Artisan parfumeur,&nbsp;<em>V\u00e9tiver \u00e9carlate<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Quentin Bisch is also behind a third creation paying tribute to the root this year: <em>Encelade<\/em> for Marc-Antoine Barrois. He depicts \u201cthe image of luxuriant nature\u201d by \u201cilluminating the vetiver with a tangy rhubarb, twinned with a smoky leather, built on quinoline with more oriental facets and the help of tonka bean and sandalwood notes,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"400\" height=\"404\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Marc-Antoine-Barrois-Encelade.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35560\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Marc-Antoine-Barrois-Encelade.jpg 400w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Marc-Antoine-Barrois-Encelade-297x300.jpg 297w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption>Marc-Antoine Barrois,&nbsp;<em>Encelade<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>At \u00c9ditions de Parfums Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Malle, vetiver, this time composed by Maurice Roucel, goes by the name <em>Uncut Gem<\/em> in 2022, mixed with leather, incense, amber and musk (and a good dose of Ambrocenide) to deliver on the promise of a \u201cfierce and irresistible sillage\u201d contrasting with the fresh opening of citrus and ginger.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"400\" height=\"485\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Uncut-Gem.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35562\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Uncut-Gem.jpg 400w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Uncut-Gem-247x300.jpg 247w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption>\u00c9ditions de parfums Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Malle,&nbsp;<em>Uncut Gem<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Other perfumers opt to use it in different ways. In its 2022 collection of fragrances based on the resin that gives it its name, Olibanum thus offers a \u201ccrisp <em>V\u00e9tiver<\/em> refreshed with hints of mandarin and geranium\u201d to be superimposed over the brand&#8217;s other fragrances in line with the layering concept.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"400\" height=\"400\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Olibanum_12ml-poncho_Vetiver.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35564\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Olibanum_12ml-poncho_Vetiver.jpg 400w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Olibanum_12ml-poncho_Vetiver-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Olibanum_12ml-poncho_Vetiver-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption>Olibanum,&nbsp;<em>V\u00e9tiver<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Finally, there are perfumers who choose to return to its roots, to the very essence of the plant. One of them is Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, who admits: \u201cI couldn\u2019t identify it in the classic interpretations, which are too urban, they smooth out the vetiver. I thought it was a pity because it&#8217;s an ingredient I love, but that I\u2019d never highlighted with my brand: so I finally decided to propose my own interpretation, to really emphasise its dual nature, which is undeniably elegant but also very \u2018rooty\u2019 and wild. I tried a lot of different approaches, and in the end it was quite complex: I wanted to create a raw material fragrance with the smell of a root torn from the earth, but also to conjure up a landscape, the one formed by the memory of early morning harvesting in Reunion Island, which Lucien Acquarone and I used to attend. For the haughty aspect, I used iris, which has an inherent elegance, and angelica, relatively uncommon in perfumery and which provides a crisp, luminous green opening, amplified by ambrette seed, which I like a lot. For the more rootsy side I chose cedar and cloves from Madagascar.\u201d His experiment turned out well: <em>V\u00e9tiver Bourbon<\/em> is both radiant and profound, dense and discernible.<br><br><\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"400\" height=\"408\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Vetiver-Bourbon-Parfum-dempire.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35566\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Vetiver-Bourbon-Parfum-dempire.png 400w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Vetiver-Bourbon-Parfum-dempire-294x300.png 294w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption>Parfum d\u2019empire,&nbsp;<em>V\u00e9tiver Bourbon<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p><strong>And tomorrow?<\/strong><br>With its environmental benefits and long history in perfumery, it is likely that vetiver has a bright future ahead of it. As illustrated by Givaudan\u2019s recent decision to grow it in sand on arid land in southeast India, resulting in the essential oil of India Orpur sand vetiver that joins its Naturals range. And because it is a fragrance in itself, perfumers are still exploring its facets. Marc-Antoine Corticchiato tells us that he would like to \u201cvisibly highlight the spices in order to link it with its roots in India, where the spices play a central role.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>To learn more about vetiver, see <em><a href=\"https:\/\/shop.bynez.com\/boutique\/nez-editions-english\/nezlmr-the-naturals-notebook\/vetiver-in-perfumery-collective\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Vetiver in perfumery<\/a><\/em><a href=\"https:\/\/shop.bynez.com\/boutique\/nez-editions-english\/nezlmr-the-naturals-notebook\/vetiver-in-perfumery-collective\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"> in the Nez \u00e9ditions + LMR Natural Notebook collection.<\/a><\/li><\/ul>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Although this tropical plant has long been a classic in perfumery, it recently seems to be attracting renewed interest. An overview of its botanical roots and olfactory developments, as seen through the eyes of perfumers Marc-Antoine Corticchiato (Parfum d&#8217;empire) and Quentin Bisch (Givaudan).<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":12139,"featured_media":35541,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1415,1416,6361],"tags":[2902,5364,812,3149,5317,4804,4870,931,6135,5362,3410],"coauthors":[2930],"class_list":["post-35664","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-olfactory-culture","category-perfume","category-perfume-trends-the-notes-making-a-splash-today","tag-100bon-en","tag-editions-de-parfums-frederic-malle-en","tag-givaudan-en","tag-hiram-green-en","tag-marc-antoine-barrois-en","tag-marc-antoine-corticchiato-en","tag-molinard-en","tag-natural-raw-materials","tag-olibanum-en","tag-quentin-bisch-en","tag-vetiver-en","pmpro-has-access"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Vetiver, shadow and light - Nez the olfactory cultural movement<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Although this tropical plant has long been a classic in perfumery, it recently seems to be attracting renewed interest. 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