{"id":36048,"date":"2022-10-26T11:27:23","date_gmt":"2022-10-26T09:27:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/?p=36048"},"modified":"2022-10-26T13:24:54","modified_gmt":"2022-10-26T11:24:54","slug":"salty-notes-sea-spray-and-tastebuds","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/olfactory-culture\/salty-notes-sea-spray-and-tastebuds\/","title":{"rendered":"Salty notes, sea spray and tastebuds"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_7acfa9a02a90c3ee36843bfc1ac743d5\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\">Often used to conjure up an ocean feel, salty notes have the distinctive characteristic of being primarily rooted in the sense of taste. An overview of the specific physiological and chemical features of these notes and their olfactory interpretation, as seen through the eyes of Ali\u00e9nor Massenet (Symrise) and C\u00e9cile Matton (Mane).<\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_7acfa9a02a90c3ee36843bfc1ac743d5 {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p>When asked, perfumers tend to describe salty notes as \u201cmineral, ozone, aquatic, sea spray, marine,\u201d as summed up by C\u00e9cile Matton from Mane. Ali\u00e9nor Massenet from Symrise adds a further explanation: \u201cIt\u2019s hard to think of saltiness in terms other than ocean notes in perfumery, because it is rooted in taste and not strictly speaking in the sense of smell.\u201d However, the ingredients that we describe as salty differ according to our culinary culture: while coconut is classified as sweet in the West and associated with the beach and deserts, it has totally different connotations on the Asian market, for example, where it is used in savoury cooking.&nbsp;<br>Since defining what salty notes can be seems complex at first, it is useful to look at the physiological and chemical attributes of salt to get a better understanding of what we\u2019re talking about.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Physiological profile&nbsp;<\/strong><br>In the chemical sense of the term, a salt is a crystal, generally soluble in water, formed by the combination of an element with a positive charge (cation) and another with a negative charge (anion). What we call &#8220;salt&#8221; in everyday language and which we use in cooking is sodium chloride (NaCl), a combination of sodium (Na) and chlorine (Cl), although it is sometimes mixed with other salts such as magnesium chloride. Known since time immemorial for its preservative properties and its power to enhance taste \u2013 &#8220;as colours need light, so foods need salt to excite the sense of taste&#8221;, wrote Plutarch<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_36048_1('footnote_plugin_reference_36048_1_1');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_36048_1('footnote_plugin_reference_36048_1_1');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_36048_1_1\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[1]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_36048_1_1\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">Plutarch, <em>Table-Talk,<\/em> IV.<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_36048_1_1').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_36048_1_1', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> \u2013 it has long been used as a currency, giving us the word &#8220;salary&#8221; (<em>salarium<\/em> meant salt distributed as an allowance to the centurions), and been taxed \u2013 with the <em>gabelle<\/em> \u2013 in the Middle Ages and the modern era: in short, salt is part and parcel of the history of humanity.<br>A distinction can be made between sea salt, which comes from salt marshes (such as Gu\u00e9rande salt), and rock salt, which comes from mines resulting from the presence of oceans hundreds of millions of years ago (like the pink salt of the Himalayas, which owes its colour to the iron it contains).<br>Whatever its origin, salt is imperceptible to the nose, while still being defined as a flavour enhancer. It does stimulate the salivary glands. However, thanks to its electrical charges, it primarily causes volatile odour molecules to leak into the back of our throats, sending them through the retronasal pathway to our olfactory receptors. Salt thus gives us a better perception not of the taste of food, but of its aroma, which is not very soluble in aqueous media like our saliva. Our sense of smell, which enables us to capture these aromas retronasally, accounts for 80% of our perception of food thanks to its 400 different types of olfactory receptors. However, salt does not only amplify our perception of taste: it can also reduce the sensation of bitterness and, in high doses, of sweetness. It is worth noting that our sense of taste allows us to perceive mainly (but not exclusively) five so-called primary flavours: saltiness, sweetness, sourness, bitterness and umami (meaning &#8220;savoury taste&#8221;, identified by Kikunae Ikeda in 1908 and known empirically long before that). Umami can equally be perceived as salty, albeit with an organic rather than a mineral saltiness, mainly expressed by sodium glutamate. Saltiness can additionally be attributed to compounds other than sodium chloride, but it is then generally perceived as unpleasant, with a bitter aftertaste. Fun fact: the idea that the receptors for specific tastes are located in specific parts of the tongue is completely false, the result of an error in the translation of a scientific article!&nbsp;<br>Finally, a salty taste is perceived thanks to the ENaC (Epithelial sodium channel) ion channel present in the membrane of taste cells. It is, however, possible that other types of specific detectors exist but have not yet been discovered: saltiness is still far from having revealed all its secrets to researchers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>Iodised sea spray<\/strong><br>Although it seems obvious to us today, the idea of odourless salt has not always held sway. In the 18th century, for example, people visiting the salt marshes attributed a very specific scent to it, as anthropologist Laurence H\u00e9rault writes: &#8220;The various authors agree on the description of the odour: freshly harvested salt supposedly smelled of violets, or at least of a floral perfume, as some writers also evoked the scent of the Florence iris.&#8221;<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_36048_1('footnote_plugin_reference_36048_1_2');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_36048_1('footnote_plugin_reference_36048_1_2');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_36048_1_2\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[2]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_36048_1_2\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">&nbsp;Laurence H\u00e9rault. <em>L\u2019odeur du sel<\/em> [<em>The smell of salt<\/em>] Fabre\u2013Vassas C. and Musset D. <em>Odeurs et parfums<\/em>, Comit\u00e9 des Travaux Historiques et Scientifiques (CTHS), pp.191\u2013200, 1999.<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_36048_1_2').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_36048_1_2', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> This smell may be due to the magnesium compounds that accompany the salt before it is purified. But the olfactory characterisation of the crystal disappeared in the 19th century with the development of technological devices that replaced the sense of smell as a means of measuring product quality.<br>Salt and violet have a shared destiny, however, because the term iodine, generally associated with the idea of saltiness, comes from the Greek <em>ioeides<\/em>, meaning &#8220;violet&#8221;: Gay Lussac gave it that particular name because of the colour of the vapours when it is heated, after it was discovered by Bernard Courtois in 1811 in seaweed ashes; seawater is in fact where it is mainly present. A trace element belonging to the halogen family, iodine is essential for humans, and its deficiency can cause thyroid problems, which explains why some table salts are enriched with it. But the perfume of sea spray is mainly due to dimethylsulphide, which is produced by the decomposition of phytoplankton, as well as to a group of molecules, the dictyopterenes, which are used by algae as a means of communication, along with bromophenol and giffordene, because &#8220;aldehydes related to the latter <em>\u2013<\/em> which are responsible for the aquatic notes of cucumber, watermelon and melon <em>\u2013<\/em> are also present in algae.&#8221;<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_36048_1('footnote_plugin_reference_36048_1_3');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_36048_1('footnote_plugin_reference_36048_1_3');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_36048_1_3\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[3]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_36048_1_3\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">See our article on <a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/olfactory-culture\/smells-of-the-beach\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">beach scents<\/a>.<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_36048_1_3').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_36048_1_3', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>A dash of materials<\/strong><br>So how do the perfumers go about recreating this salty sensation, which is in principle a resident of the realm of taste?<br>Seaweed extract, available in the perfumery palette, is unsurprisingly one of the materials chosen to meet this challenge: &#8220;At Mane, we have a superb iodine, salty <a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/perfume\/jungle-essence-technology-mane-more-real-than-nature-itself\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Jungle Essence<\/a> red seaweed extract with a woody moss facet,&#8221; confirms C\u00e9cile Matton.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br>On the natural side, marine facets are to be found in ambergris, the intestinal secretion of the sperm whale. Once considered the white gold of perfumery, it owes its smell to a long journey through the seas, without which it cannot be used for olfactory purposes.<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_36048_1('footnote_plugin_reference_36048_1_4');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_36048_1('footnote_plugin_reference_36048_1_4');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_36048_1_4\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[4]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_36048_1_4\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">To learn more about ambergris, see our special article in<em> <\/em><a href=\"https:\/\/shop.bynez.com\/boutique\/nez-the-olfactory-magazine\/nez-the-olfactory-magazine-07-the-animal-sense\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><em>Nez, the Olfactory Magazine &#8211; #07 &#8211; The Animal Sense<\/em><\/a><em>.<\/em><\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_36048_1_4').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_36048_1_4', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> It has dropped out of use, however, because of its scarcity (sperm whales are less numerous than in the past), its price and the vegan trend, and is &#8220;replaced&#8221; by molecules such as Ambrox (contained in natural ambergris).<br>Of the artificial molecules evoking the smell of sea spray, the most famous is certainly Calone, synthesised for the first time in 1966 by three Pfizer chemists, John J. Beereboom, Donald P. Cameron and Charles R. Stephens, who discovered a compound (methylbenzodioxepinone) with the smell of &#8220;fresh, green leaves reminiscent of melon.&#8221; The company outsourced production to one of its subsidiaries specialising in aromatic ingredients, Camilli, Albert &amp; Laloue (C. A. L.), hence the name &#8216;CALone&#8217;.<span class=\"footnote_referrer\"><a role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" onclick=\"footnote_moveToReference_36048_1('footnote_plugin_reference_36048_1_5');\" onkeypress=\"footnote_moveToReference_36048_1('footnote_plugin_reference_36048_1_5');\" ><sup id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_36048_1_5\" class=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text\">[5]<\/sup><\/a><span id=\"footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_36048_1_5\" class=\"footnote_tooltip\">&nbsp;For more information on Calone, see <a href=\"https:\/\/shop.bynez.com\/boutique\/nez-the-olfactory-magazine\/nez-the-olfactory-magazine-05-natural-and-synthetics\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><em>Nez, The Olfactory Magazine &#8211; #05 &#8211; Natural and Synthetics<\/em><\/a>.<\/span><\/span><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_36048_1_5').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_36048_1_5', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top center', relative: true, offset: [-7, 0], });<\/script> Added to its facets of water fruit and sea spray are aniseed and oily notes, and is has a very powerful olfactory impact: \u201cwe use it mainly as a facet, rarely as an overdose; when you add too much of it to a formula, it can create a nauseating metallic effect,\u201d C\u00e9cile Matton points out. \u201cBut it&#8217;s the king of ingredients when it comes to iodine notes, which are rather limited in our palette. Natural moss, sometimes replaced by Evernyl, and certain floral notes that had a salty or wet effect, such as Helional, and Algenone with its solar amber dimension, are restricted these days. We can still use Floralozone, although it\u2019s more aquatic than salty, and Melonal for its watery melon facets. Mane has developed various captives, like Aqual, which has expanded our palette of salty notes. As for the ambergris facet, Orcanox, a Mane upcycled molecule, is interesting because of its complexity.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/science-en\/garden-lab-symrises-high-tech-vegetables\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">At Symrise, the palette was expanded in late 2020 with a collection called Garden Lab<\/a>, which celebrates ingredients produced from vegetables: &#8220;We\u2019re like children opening their presents at Christmas, full of enthusiasm, sometimes even really excited,&#8221; smiles Ali\u00e9nor Massenet. \u201cThey are gorgeous ingredients. Asparagus can offer a new way of working on a slightly salty green note, in a similar vein to galbanum; artichokes have pinker, more floral facets; cauliflower in a gourmet composition will break up the sweetness, as Calone could do; and onions can replace slightly animal notes. These are ingredients that I use sparingly, to give contrast to the fragrance. Our customers tend to be very intrigued by these new raw materials but some of them are still nervous about using them or referring to them in their perfumes, so I use the ingredients without necessarily mentioning them. Alexandra Carlin used our cauliflower Symptrap in L&#8217;Artisan parfumeur&#8217;s Le Potager collection. It\u2019s a perfect example that makes it easier to see the creativity the ingredients can bring; maybe it will shift the lines.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>The perfumers&#8217; pinch of salt<\/strong><br>Salty notes first burst onto the scene in the form of marine compositions: &#8220;It was two Mane creations, <em>New West for Her<\/em> [by Yves Tanguy for Aramis in 1990], then <em>Escape for women<\/em> [Calvin Klein, 1991], that launched the trend,&#8221; recalls C\u00e9cile Matton. \u201cThe note then went on to shape the men&#8217;s market in the long term: <em>Kenzo pour homme <\/em>[created by Christian Mathieu in 1991] was a real trailblazer, even though it\u2019s not terribly accessible, proving that consumers can happily embrace radical innovations that offer real olfactory innovation!&#8221;<br>The more aquatic <em>Eau d&#8217;Issey<\/em> by Jacques Cavallier in 1992 was followed by <em>Acqua di Gio<\/em> in 1996 by Alberto Morillas, Annick Menardo and Annie Buzantian for Giorgio Armani, with an added marine focus, but very clean and polite.<br>The same year Reminiscence released <em>Rem<\/em>, with its unmistakable salty-amber signature, while Profumum Roma<em> <\/em>launched<em> Acqua di sale<\/em>.&nbsp;<br>In 2004, Ralf Schwieger and Nathalie Feisthauer created <em>Eau des merveilles<\/em> for Herm\u00e8s, a composition based on an ambergris accord that has become a perfumery classic.<br>The note gradually conquered the independent brands, with an appearance in <em>Do Son<\/em> by Diptyque in 2005: &#8220;the founders had lived in Indochina and wanted a flower swaying in spray from the sea, which is how the green tuberose came about,&#8221; explains C\u00e9cile Matton.&nbsp;<br>Also worth mentioning are the 2008 <em>Sel marin<\/em> by James Heeley, bringing to mind a saunter on the dunes, between crumpled leaves and driftwood, and <em>Aod <\/em>by the Breton house Lostmarc&#8217;h with its floral, aquatic and poetic coconut feel.<br>In 2010, <em>Womanity<\/em> made a big splash in the mainstream perfumery market with its sweet and savoury contrast, co-created by a team at Mane that included C\u00e9cile Matton: &#8220;the brief was a memory of a moment spent by Thierry Mugler under a fig tree, lulled by the sea breeze. Serge Majoullier [perfumer and expert in developing new raw materials at Mane] had developed a caviar Jungle Essence, which made it possible to create a caviar accord. Cistus labdanum also contributes to the salty mineral effect, enriched by pyrazines to hint at rice growing in water, and forges a link with the sweetness of the fig. Finding the right balance was complicated, we spent a lot of time on it, and it was an audacious gamble,&#8221; recalls the perfumer. On the same theme, Paco Rabanne&#8217;s <em>Olymp\u00e9a<\/em> followed in 2015, composed by Loc Dong, Anne Flipo and Dominique Ropion of IFF.<br>Perhaps more rarely, the note summons up skin&#8217;s animalistic aspect, since the sweat produced by the eccrine sweat glands tastes salty. <em>Musc Tonkin<\/em>, composed by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato for his brand Parfum d&#8217;empire in 2012, plays on this animal minerality with remarkable mastery.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>A taste for something new?<\/strong><br>Although the sugary trend is proving persistent, could saltiness have the potential to move gradually away from glucose and its sticky liqueurs? <em>\u201c<\/em>It hasn\u2019t yet become a standard request from clients,\u201d notes Ali\u00e9nor Massenet.<em> <\/em>\u201cI think that salty notes are more \u2018intellectual\u2019 than sugary ones, less immediately obvious.<em> <\/em>But if you use this facet in the same way as adding a pinch of salt to a chocolate cake, you create contrast and a new form of addiction.\u201d<em> <\/em>Despite its frugal use, salt is still very much present and has made an olfactory appearance in a host of recent launches. \u201cIt is still a very distinctive family, difficult to update, because we don\u2019t have as many ingredients in the palette.<em> <\/em>Getting away from the classic marine notes is still a challenge,\u201d adds C\u00e9cile Matton.<br>Nevertheless, a number of perfumers are looking to reinvent the genre, such as Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, who he dedicated his 2018 <em>Acqua di Scandola<\/em>, \u201ca landscape fragrance, as surprising as the place that inspired it,\u201d to the Corsican peninsula and nature reserve that bears the same name. \u201cI wanted to use something other than artificial aquatic molecules to express the marine accord, because they\u2019ve become clich\u00e9d.<em> <\/em>I found the key in a gorgeous seaweed extract,\u201d explains the perfumer. The sea mingles with the olfactory expression of \u201cuntouched nature, conveyed by the aromatic edginess of juniper and spicy scents of immortelle\u201d and \u201crocks covered in velvety moss.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Acqua-di-Scandola.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35866\" width=\"375\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Acqua-di-Scandola.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Acqua-di-Scandola-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Acqua-di-Scandola-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>Parfum d\u2019empire,&nbsp;<em>Acqua di Scandola<\/em>, 2018<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Christine Nagel was inspired by the Adriatic Sea flowing under the bridges of Venice for her first composition in the 2019 Jardins d\u2019Herm\u00e8s collection. Both floral and salty, the <em>Jardin sur la lagune <\/em>is a tapestry of memories of a place the perfumer has visited on several occasions, forming \u201ca garden from a dream, caressing and vibrant.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Jardin-sur-la-lagune-Hermes.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35864\" width=\"375\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Jardin-sur-la-lagune-Hermes.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Jardin-sur-la-lagune-Hermes-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Jardin-sur-la-lagune-Hermes-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>Herm\u00e8s,&nbsp;<em>Un Jardin sur la lagune<\/em>, 2019<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>For his second perfume, Marc\u2013Antoine Barrois took a trip to <em>Ganym\u00e8de,<\/em> one of Jupiter\u2019s satellites, \u201ca rocky, luminous planet submerged in oceans of salty water\u201c and discovered by Galileo in 1610. His sidekick, perfumer Quentin Bisch, devised \u201ca quartet of mandarin, violet, suede and immortelle,\u201d with the last of the four serving as \u201ca counterpoint to enhance the accord with its alternating mineral and salty facets.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Marc-Antoine-Barrois-Gamymede.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35862\" width=\"375\" height=\"378\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Marc-Antoine-Barrois-Gamymede.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Marc-Antoine-Barrois-Gamymede-298x300.jpg 298w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Marc-Antoine-Barrois-Gamymede-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>Marc-Antoine Barrois,&nbsp;<em>Ganym\u00e8de<\/em>, 2019<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Still in 2019, St\u00e9phanie Bakouche created <em>Rose Saltifolia<\/em> for Maison Crivelli, a fragrance that conjures the experience \u201cof a seaside stroll, through fields of newly opened roses tossing in the ocean breezes.\u201d The queen of flowers is \u201csparkling and crystal-clear\u201d in this composition, teamed up with \u201ca salty, silky seaweed absolute.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Rose-Saltifolia-Maison-Crivelli.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35860\" width=\"375\" height=\"367\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Rose-Saltifolia-Maison-Crivelli.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Rose-Saltifolia-Maison-Crivelli-300x293.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>Maison Crivelli,&nbsp;<em>Rose Saltifolia<\/em>, 2019<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>A pinch of salt also brings out gourmand ingredients, notably the vanilla in <em>Couleur vanille<\/em> released by l\u2019Artisan parfumeur in 2020. Ali\u00e9nor Massenet, who created the fragrance, had the idea of \u201csuggesting the ocean breeze caressing the exotic pod,\u201d she explains.<em> <\/em>\u201cSo I counterbalanced my vanilla with Calone as well as immortelle, which has a hint of saltiness alongside a spicy celery effect, and which grows at the seaside. To soften and mask the note, I used salicylate, a salty, solar molecule that is very abstract.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Couleur-Vanille-AP.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35840\" width=\"375\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Couleur-Vanille-AP.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Couleur-Vanille-AP-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Couleur-Vanille-AP-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>L\u2019Artisan parfumeur,&nbsp;<em>Couleur vanille<\/em>, 2020<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>The brand Memo opted for creating an imaginary encounter with a mythical cetacean and the enchantment of whale song. Perfumer Ali\u00e9nor Massenet came up with a \u201cleather centring on the ocean and contrasting with salty notes, including a seaweed absolute that has a highly distinctive aroma, both vegetal and animal, part reptile, part tree moss, but that, in the right dose, adds a lovely signature, softened by salicylate.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Ocean-Leather-Memo.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35838\" width=\"375\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Ocean-Leather-Memo.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Ocean-Leather-Memo-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Ocean-Leather-Memo-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>Memo,&nbsp;<em>Ocean Leather<\/em>, 2020<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Back to Corsica again with <em>Sel d\u2019argent <\/em>by BDK, which recounts the memory of a \u201clate afternoon on the rocks of the Island of Beauty\u201d with \u201cthe taste of salt still clinging to your skin.\u201d Anne\u2013Sophie Behaghel added in the smell of a fig tree encountered in the \u201cfresh, transparent marine\u201d air.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/BDKsel-d-argent.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35836\" width=\"375\" height=\"374\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/BDKsel-d-argent.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/BDKsel-d-argent-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/BDKsel-d-argent-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>BDK,<em>&nbsp;Sel d\u2019argent,<\/em>&nbsp;2020<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>The 100% natural and organic fragrance brand Nout also stirs up memories of summer with its 2021 <em>Sel de mer<\/em>. Laure Jacquet de Robertet devised \u201ca fruity melon [which] then sweeps you away to sea spray notes,\u201d and onwards to a \u201csmooth, heady soft orange blossom\u201d laid over a woody cedar structure.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Nout-Sel-de-mer.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35834\" width=\"375\" height=\"376\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Nout-Sel-de-mer.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Nout-Sel-de-mer-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Nout-Sel-de-mer-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>Nout,&nbsp;<em>Sel de mer<\/em>, 2021<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Flowers, scattered with grains of salt, also feature in <em>\u00c7a boum<\/em>, one of the fragrances in the Expressions parfum\u00e9es collection by Teo Cabanel. With this perfume, Patrice Revillard offers a \u201csweet and salty contrast that is bold and hypnotic, inspired by the captivating sea daffodil.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Teo-Cabanel-ca-boum.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35832\" width=\"375\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Teo-Cabanel-ca-boum.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Teo-Cabanel-ca-boum-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Teo-Cabanel-ca-boum-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>Teo Cabanel,&nbsp;<em>\u00c7a boum<\/em>, 2021<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>The same year, Diptyque launched a limited edition eau de toilette, <em>Venise<\/em>, part of the Grand Tour marking the brand\u2019s 60th anniversary. \u201cThe idea was to imagine a kitchen garden in the lagoon. I worked on tomato, which is halfway between a fruit and a vegetable, and which adds a pleasurable dimension to the perfume with its juicy but unsugary character.<em> <\/em>I combined it with Mane\u2019s Jungle Essence green pepper, which is also very juicy, smells of freshly cut vegetables, is naturally aquatic and evokes a light sea breeze,\u201d explains C\u00e9cile Matton. A delicate creation we hope to see back in the brand\u2019s catalogue.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Diptyque_Totems_Venise.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35830\" width=\"375\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Diptyque_Totems_Venise.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Diptyque_Totems_Venise-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Diptyque_Totems_Venise-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>Diptyque,&nbsp;<em>Venise<\/em>, 2021<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>The year 2022 saw a flurry of iodine-fuelled expeditions, possibly in response to the isolation of lockdowns and a need to open the door to other places.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Liquides imaginaires takes us on a journey into the salty depths with its Eaux des Bermudes collection, comprising three fragrances that \u201ctell the tale of a mythical and perilous sea crossing full of dangers and an adventurer who escapes them all before recounting them in perfumes.\u201d In <em>Abyssis<\/em>, Shyamala Maisondieu from Givaudan defies the kraken armed with Calypsone, Cosmone and Sylkolide, underpinned by woody and peppery notes. <em>Navis<\/em>, by Nad\u00e8ge Le Garlantezec, features a boat \u201crich in treasures\u201d centring on cedar, amyris and laminaria seaweed moss. Lastly, <em>Sirenis <\/em>fills our ears with \u201ca haunting song\u201d in a whisper of clary sage, moss and wood composed by Sonia Constant and Marion Costero.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Liquides-Imaginaires-Bermudes.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35827\" width=\"375\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Liquides-Imaginaires-Bermudes.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Liquides-Imaginaires-Bermudes-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Liquides-Imaginaires-Bermudes-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>Liquides imaginaires,&nbsp;<em>Sirenis, Navis<\/em>&nbsp;et&nbsp;<em>Abyssis<\/em>, 2022<br><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Carner Barcelona whisks us off to the Mediterranean with <em>Sal y Limon, <\/em>whose \u201csharp salty accord lends further depth\u201d to the \u201ccitric and fizzy\u201d composition built on musks and a patchouli base.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Sal-y-limon-Carner.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35825\" width=\"375\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Sal-y-limon-Carner.png 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Sal-y-limon-Carner-300x300.png 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Sal-y-limon-Carner-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>Carner Barcelona,&nbsp;<em>Sal y Lem\u00f3n<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Repetto also makes use of orange blossom in its <em>N\u00e9roli solaire<\/em>, \u201caddictive with a salty side brought out by Calone, which creates a water flowers effect,\u201d explains Ali\u00e9nor Massenet. She teamed it up with \u201ca ballet of luminous, radiant white flowers: exotic frangipani, graceful Madagascar ylang\u2013ylang and velvety gardenia.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Neroli-solaire-Repetto.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35823\" width=\"375\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Neroli-solaire-Repetto.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Neroli-solaire-Repetto-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Neroli-solaire-Repetto-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>Repetto,&nbsp;<em>N\u00e9roli solaire<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>The Different Company offers another floral choreography with <em>Dance of the dawn<\/em>, an eau de parfum launched as part of the brand\u2019s L\u2019Esprit cologne collection, with a \u201cwoody and floral heart reinforced by a delicate vanilla\u201d that \u201ctransports us to a faraway exotic beach.\u201d Emilie Coppermann from Symrise added a salty touch to the driftwood accord, \u201cevoking a stroll along the ocean\u2019s edge, like wood dried by the sun\u2019s rays, fossilised by sea salt, bleached by the sea air.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Dance-of-the-dawn-TDC.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35821\" width=\"375\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Dance-of-the-dawn-TDC.png 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Dance-of-the-dawn-TDC-300x300.png 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Dance-of-the-dawn-TDC-150x150.png 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>The Different Company,&nbsp;<em>Dance of the Dawn<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>The brand Po\u00e9cile, on a mission to help us rediscover the regions of France thanks to our noses, has recently released <em>Bleu Asgard<\/em>, which takes us on a journey to the coast of Brittany where we can \u201clet ourselves be rocked by the invigorating waves of the Atlantic.\u201d<em> <\/em>Created by Patrice Revillard, the fragrance opens with fresh iodine notes then walks a path that is both mineral and aquatic, where the seaweed absolute and ambergris and driftwood accords bubble up.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Poecile-Bleu-Asgard.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35819\" width=\"375\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Poecile-Bleu-Asgard.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Poecile-Bleu-Asgard-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Poecile-Bleu-Asgard-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>Po\u00e9cile,<em>&nbsp;Bleu Asgard<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Patrice Revillard also worked on the salty note for Teo Cabanel with a limited edition fragrance (now sold out!) in collaboration with the brand Modetrotter. In <em>Peau sal\u00e9e,<\/em> he fuses frangipani with jasmine, the two flowers \u201cintertwined with driftwood and tonka cream\u201d and featuring coconut nuances. A perfume that \u201chas a lovely holiday smell\u201d and can be worn \u201call year round, to keep memories of hot summer days alive!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Peau-salee-Teo-Cabanel.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35816\" width=\"375\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Peau-salee-Teo-Cabanel.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Peau-salee-Teo-Cabanel-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/Peau-salee-Teo-Cabanel-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>Teo Cabanel x Modetrotter,&nbsp;<em>Peau sal\u00e9e<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p><em>Peau sal\u00e9e<\/em> is also the name of one of the perfume oils &#8220;with a confidential, addictive and comforting trail&#8221; from the recent brand Ela\u00efo, based in Bordeaux, France. Perfumers Cl\u00e9mentine Humeau and Marie-Julie H\u00e9bert have composed &#8220;a floral, mineral and saline fragrance&#8221; with a milky, salty, sunny effect and notes of coconut, inspired &#8220;by a day at Bondi Beach, a mythical and popular Australian surf spot with a casual atmosphere.&#8221;<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/peau-salee-Elaio.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35814\" width=\"375\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/peau-salee-Elaio.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/peau-salee-Elaio-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/peau-salee-Elaio-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>Ela\u00efo,&nbsp;<em>Peau sal\u00e9e<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Sweetness also takes a starring role in <em>Tonka blanc <\/em>from L\u2019Artisan parfumeur, where creamy facets are softened, surprisingly enough, by cauliflower! A creation by Alexandra Carlin from Symrise representing \u201cthe first perfume on the market to feature a natural vegetable extract,\u201d part of Le Potager collection, its sweetness counterbalanced by citrus top notes.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/TonkaBlanc-AP.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-35812\" width=\"375\" height=\"375\" srcset=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/TonkaBlanc-AP.jpg 500w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/TonkaBlanc-AP-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/10\/TonkaBlanc-AP-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 375px) 100vw, 375px\" \/><figcaption>L\u2019Artisan parfumeur,&nbsp;<em>Tonka blanc<\/em>, 2022<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Although it is not yet commercially available, <em>Umema, <\/em>the perfume composed by Ugo Charron from Mane in collaboration with anosmic journalist Emmanuelle Dancourt, plays on the notion of salty sweetness, including via an exploration of the umami note, rarely featured in perfumery. The result is textured and creamy thanks to the choice of Suederal, Tropicalone, musks and sandalwood. Equally, it is salty and gourmand, with hazelnut and red seaweed Jungle Essence extracts teamed with a cocoa, moss, cedar and salicylate accord. While you wait for the chance to smell it for yourself, <a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/news\/emmanuelle-dancourt-and-ugo-charron-we-used-the-sense-of-touch-to-enter-into-olfactory-territory\/\">you can read all about it in our article<\/a>.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong>And tomorrow?<\/strong><br>We are willing to bet that, in the not too distant future, brands will look increasingly to vegetables or umami for inspiration, bringing them into line with the perfumers who want to explore new olfactory territories beyond sugar and the sea and find inspiration there.&nbsp;When that day comes, C\u00e9cile Matton from Mane would like to work on \u201cthe velvety taste of balsamic vinegar; I adore it\u2019s texture, acidity and the sweet and savoury feel,\u201d or on \u201ca sparkling pepper aldehyde with blackcurrant notes to create a whole new green citrusy floral.\u201d As for Ali\u00e9nor Massenet, she cites a perfumery\u2019s illustrious name: \u201cI would love to come up with a new <em>Jicky<\/em>, by replacing the civet with onion, which we recently added to our palette at Symrise, and which has fascinating animal facets that pave the way to a new oriental.\u201d<br>Plenty of mouth-watering ideas, which may finally end up drowning out the siren call of glucose.<\/p>\n<div class=\"speaker-mute footnotes_reference_container\"> <div class=\"footnote_container_prepare\"><p><span role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"footnote_reference_container_label pointer\" onclick=\"footnote_expand_collapse_reference_container_36048_1();\">Notes<\/span><span role=\"button\" tabindex=\"0\" class=\"footnote_reference_container_collapse_button\" style=\"display: none;\" onclick=\"footnote_expand_collapse_reference_container_36048_1();\">[<a id=\"footnote_reference_container_collapse_button_36048_1\">+<\/a>]<\/span><\/p><\/div> <div id=\"footnote_references_container_36048_1\" style=\"\"><table class=\"footnotes_table footnote-reference-container\"><caption class=\"accessibility\">Notes<\/caption> <tbody> \r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_36048_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_36048_1_1');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_36048_1_1\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>1<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">Plutarch, <em>Table-Talk,<\/em> IV.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_36048_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_36048_1_2');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_36048_1_2\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>2<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">&nbsp;Laurence H\u00e9rault. <em>L\u2019odeur du sel<\/em> [<em>The smell of salt<\/em>] Fabre\u2013Vassas C. and Musset D. <em>Odeurs et parfums<\/em>, Comit\u00e9 des Travaux Historiques et Scientifiques (CTHS), pp.191\u2013200, 1999.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_36048_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_36048_1_3');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_36048_1_3\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>3<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">See our article on <a href=\"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/olfactory-culture\/smells-of-the-beach\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">beach scents<\/a>.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_36048_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_36048_1_4');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_36048_1_4\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>4<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">To learn more about ambergris, see our special article in<em> <\/em><a href=\"https:\/\/shop.bynez.com\/boutique\/nez-the-olfactory-magazine\/nez-the-olfactory-magazine-07-the-animal-sense\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><em>Nez, the Olfactory Magazine &#8211; #07 &#8211; The Animal Sense<\/em><\/a><em>.<\/em><\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n<tr class=\"footnotes_plugin_reference_row\"> <th scope=\"row\" class=\"footnote_plugin_index_combi pointer\"  onclick=\"footnote_moveToAnchor_36048_1('footnote_plugin_tooltip_36048_1_5');\"><a id=\"footnote_plugin_reference_36048_1_5\" class=\"footnote_backlink\"><span class=\"footnote_index_arrow\">&#8593;<\/span>5<\/a><\/th> <td class=\"footnote_plugin_text\">&nbsp;For more information on Calone, see <a href=\"https:\/\/shop.bynez.com\/boutique\/nez-the-olfactory-magazine\/nez-the-olfactory-magazine-05-natural-and-synthetics\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><em>Nez, The Olfactory Magazine &#8211; #05 &#8211; Natural and Synthetics<\/em><\/a>.<\/td><\/tr>\r\n\r\n <\/tbody> <\/table> <\/div><\/div><script type=\"text\/javascript\"> function footnote_expand_reference_container_36048_1() { jQuery('#footnote_references_container_36048_1').show(); jQuery('#footnote_reference_container_collapse_button_36048_1').text('\u2212'); 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