{"id":47407,"date":"2025-01-06T15:46:59","date_gmt":"2025-01-06T14:46:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/?p=47407"},"modified":"2025-01-08T09:58:35","modified_gmt":"2025-01-08T08:58:35","slug":"eurofragance-active-in-captives","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mag.komk.fr\/en\/olfactory-culture\/eurofragance-active-in-captives\/","title":{"rendered":"Eurofragance, active in captives"},"content":{"rendered":"    <div id=\"chapo-block_8b482f84ec36f36b2c4707e1bd808d46\" class=\"chapo\">\r\n        <blockquote class=\"chapo-blockquote\">\r\n            <span class=\"chapo-text\"><p>In an industry where differentiation is the ultimate goal, the major fragrances houses have long been developing molecules known as captives, which are for their exclusive use. A few years ago, Eurofragance, a fragrance house located just outside Barcelona, decided to take the captives route to bolster the unique character of its creations, among other objectives. A voyage into the mysteries of the never-ending quest for perfume innovation.<\/p>\n<\/span>\r\n        <\/blockquote>\r\n        <style type=\"text\/css\">\r\n            #chapo-block_8b482f84ec36f36b2c4707e1bd808d46 {\r\n                background: ;\r\n                color: ;\r\n            }\r\n        <\/style>\r\n    <\/div>\r\n    \n\n\n<p><em>This article was written in partnership with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.eurofragance.com\/\">Eurofragance.<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>&#8220;We discover and invent new ingredients which enrich the perfumer\u2019s palette while opening the door to new sensorial experiences,\u201d says Felipe San Juan Tejada, R&amp;D Scientist at Eurofragance headquarters. These captives, both natural and synthetic, now play a crucial role for the fragrance houses that create them. Olivier Anthony, R&amp;D Director at Eurofragance, offers his definition: \u201ca captive can be an existing raw material or the product of our own research. Initially designed for exclusive use, it is usually protected by industrial property rights.\u201d <br>A captive\u2019s purpose may be to create an innovative or original scent \u2013 or to replace a molecule or ingredient that has come under regulation. It provides the company that develops it a guarantee of olfactive exclusivity and control over the entire supply chain, as opposed to an ingredient bought from a supplier, for example. <br>\u201cOwning a captive is seen as prestigious, but it is primarily a way to stand out from the competition by meeting a creative or technical need,\u201d continues Olivier Anthony. Not to mention the possibility, if the fragrance house is open to it, of selling the captive to other companies during the life of the patent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Natural and synthetic<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>The word \u201ccaptive\u201d in perfumery can designate an ingredient of natural or synthetic source. But in both cases it implies a notion of possession. In essence, the company that develops a captive is its owner.\u00a0Eurofragance has experimented with the two options, natural and synthetic: \u201cfor our captive l\u2019\u00c2me du Bois<sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote modern-footnotes-footnote--expands-on-desktop \" data-mfn=\"1\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"000000000acbab4a0000000078230620_47407\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-000000000acbab4a0000000078230620_47407-1\">1<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-000000000acbab4a0000000078230620_47407-1\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"1\">https:\/\/www.eurofragance.com\/our-captive-ingredient\/<\/span>, we focused our work on discarded Western red cedarwood sawdust, widely used in the Canadian building industry.\u201d By purifying the material using a Eurofragance patented process, the teams brought out the remarkably rich olfactive facets that are not revealed during an ordinary extraction process. As a result, L\u2019\u00c2me du Bois is an upcycled ingredient, part of a sustainable approach, and aligned with the goals Eurofragance has set for its palette of ingredients.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In parallel, the scientists in the R&amp;D department explore specific segments of chemistry likely to offer them components with a strong olfactive impact. \u201cOur research projects are driven by our knowledge of our perfumers\u2019 needs, our understanding of the links between the structure and the odor of molecules, and our exploration of new synthesizing or purifying methods,\u201d explains Olivier Anthony. <br>This was the path taken for the development of Eurofragance\u2019s captive Euphorion<sup class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote modern-footnotes-footnote--expands-on-desktop \" data-mfn=\"2\" data-mfn-post-scope=\"000000000acbab4a0000000078230620_47407\"><a href=\"javascript:void(0)\"  role=\"button\" aria-pressed=\"false\" aria-describedby=\"mfn-content-000000000acbab4a0000000078230620_47407-2\">2<\/a><\/sup><span id=\"mfn-content-000000000acbab4a0000000078230620_47407-2\" role=\"tooltip\" class=\"modern-footnotes-footnote__note\" tabindex=\"0\" data-mfn=\"2\">https:\/\/www.eurofragance.com\/euphorion\/<\/span> an entirely synthetic molecule, unlike l\u2019\u00c2me du Bois. \u201cEuphorion is a good example of what can sometimes happen during the research process. It is the fruit of an approach we opted for while working on another olfactive profile, and combines a distinctive character with remarkable performance,\u201d says Felipe San Juan Tejada. The two captives have now joined the palette of Eurofragance ingredients, endowing the company\u2019s fragrance compositions with unique aesthetic and technical qualities enabling them to stand out in the crowd.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">A multidisciplinary project<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Developing a captive involves pooling skills that are not confined to perfumers and R&amp;D scientists. While the R&amp;D department is key to the project, numerous other teams are involved: the evaluators and technical perfumers act as the bridge between the scientists and creative perfumers to ensure that the captive\u2019s perfumistic properties and performances are fully relevant in scented compositions, regardless of the application format: alcohol, cream, oil, etc. <br>The purchasing department is responsible for guaranteeing a stable and constant supply of the raw material: plant-based ingredients for natural captives and the precursor chemicals required for synthetic captives. The Eurofragance sourcers explore all the possibilities offered by the transformation of natural ingredients: upcycling of waste and residues, essence purification, and other specific extractions. <br>The financial and logistic aspects are not overlooked: industrial forecasts are calculated, and production at scale and its economic spinoffs are assessed. <br>The technical compliance department plays a vital role in the development of captives by providing teams with the information they need on the viability of their approach, thus ensuring the future of the new ingredient. It also assesses the environmental impact, from supply up to elimination. \u201cIn particular, throughout the chain we study and measure the captive\u2019s potential impact on carbon emissions, water use and any associated ethical issues,\u201d says Diana March Blad\u00e9, Chief Sustainability and Technical Compliance Officer at Eurofragance. <br>The department commissions tests carried out by external bodies to ensure the captive is safe. \u201cOne of the best known tests concerns the CMR trio,\u201d explains Diana March Blad\u00e9. \u201cIt is used to identify any carcinogenic, mutagenic and reprotoxic effects. But there are also sensitization tests designed to confirm that the captive does not have allergenic properties.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Once it has been established that the product complies with regulations, Eurofragance approves the new captive and initiates its commercialization.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>As the product launch date approaches, the communication team comes into play, leveraging a range of tools to win over existing and prospective clients: \u201cThe captive\u2019s name and definition must be appealing, and since we\u2019re addressing fragrance brands of all sizes, we need to make it perfectly clear what qualities it offers, what it adds to a composition, and how it can act as a differentiating factor in the end product,\u201d explains Gloria Rosique, Corporate Communications Manager at Eurofragance. <br>The company also counts on the final consumer\u2019s keen interest in perfumery ingredients and on certain increasingly famous captives. \u201cWith our captives, we are playing our part, at our scale, in the expansion and improvement of the perfumer\u2019s palette,\u201d concludes Gloria Rosique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Special thanks to Felipe San Juan Tejada, Oliver Anthony, Diana March Blad\u00e9, St\u00e9phanie Marze and Gloria Rosique.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>For more informations, you can visit the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.eurofragance.com\/\">Eurofragance website<\/a>. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><em>Photo : Felipe San Juan Tejada, R&amp;D Scientist et Magdalena Rey, Technical Perfumer<br>Credit : @ Eurofragance<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In an industry where olfactive differentiation is the ultimate goal, the major composition houses have long been developing molecules known as captives, which are for their exclusive use. For a few years ago, Eurofragance, a fragrance house located just outside Barcelona, decided to take the captives route to bolster the unique character of its creations, among other objectives. A voyage into the mysteries of the never-ending quest for fragrance innovation.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10001118,"featured_media":47337,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"pmpro_default_level":"","footnotes":"[]"},"categories":[1415,1418],"tags":[6521,988],"coauthors":[8391],"class_list":["post-47407","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-olfactory-culture","category-science-en","tag-eurofragance","tag-raw-materials","pmpro-has-access"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Eurofragance, active in captives - Nez the olfactory cultural movement<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"In an industry where olfactive differentiation is the ultimate goal, the major composition houses have long been developing molecules known as captives, which are for their exclusive use. 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